Henry s



AT FlF.

HENRY S. HOLMES, 0F LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS.

CONGRESS eAITERs.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HENRY S. HOLMES, ot"` Lynn, in the county of Essexand Commonwealth of Massachusetta have invented a certain new and usefulImprovement in the Manufacture of Congress Gaiters; and I do herebydeclare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description ofthe same, referencebeing had to the accompanying draw ing thereof andmaking part of this speciiication, in which- Figure 1 represents a planof one half of the heel part of the gaiter top as cut out preparatory`to being secured to the other hall' and afterward secured to the goreand lining; Fig. 2 represents a similar view of one-half of thecorresponding part of the lining; Fig. 3 represents a plan of theelastic gore as cut out preparatory to being attached to the gaiter top.Figs. 4 and 5 represent a plan respectively of one-half of the frontpart of the gaiter top and lining as cnt out preparatory to undergoingthe same operations, and Fig. 6 asimilar View of the outer parts of theheel, as sewed together in the first part of the operation; Fig. 7, asimilar view of the lining finished to the saine extent; the two parts(Figs. 6 and 7) being now ready to be put together and attached to eachother by sewing, as represented in' Fig. 8, a tug being also representedin that figure as secured between the two in the latter operation; asmall piece of linen having previously been stitched down over the backseam that secured the two parts of the prunella or outer cloth of theheel part, to strengthen and stiiien it, (showing in red lines the sizeof the gore'as stitched between the outer cloth and lining, it being thenext operation.) Fig. 9 represents the two parts of the outer cloth ofthe front part of the gaiter top as stitched together and Fig. 10 asimilar view of the two parts of the front lining, nished to the sameeX- tent; Fig. 11, a plan of the outer cloth and lining as fitted andsewed together, preparatory to being attached to the other edge of thegore now attached to the back or heel part of the gaiter top, thisfigure, .as in Fig. 8, representing in red lines the position of thegore during that operation; and further representing a piece of linenwhich has been previously stitched down over the seam of the outer clothof the front part of the gaiter top, on its inside to strengthen andstiften it. Fig. 12 represents an edge View an edge ot' the gore, asattached to the front and heel part of the gaiter top; the lining andouter cloth after being stitched down on the -gore having been turnedover; Fig. 14k represents a side elevation of the gaiter top as finishedready to be soled.

My present improvement relates to that class of gaiters commonly calledCongress genere.

On the 19th day ot' June, 1860, a patent was granted to me for a certainimprovement in Congress gaiters, to wit: securing the edges of the'gores to the gaiter top and lining by a seam common to all by means ofwhich the gores were secured in a much better manner inasmuch as by thatmethod it was easier and cheaper so to attach them, andl when thusattached an equal strain or tension was exerted upon them, preventingpuckerings, &c.

My present improvement consists in combining with that method ofsecuring the gores, the method to be hereafter described, ot' securingthe upper edges ot the gait-er top and lining together, by means ofwhich, the

whole process of manufacture of gaiter tops can be eii'ected bymachinery, at a much less cost, and in a neater and stronger manner andin a much shorter time than heretofore.

To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my improvement, Iwill now pro# ceed to describe `it in'detail, here remarking that thesewing is executed by machine.

The cloth or material of which the gaiter top is to be made is first cutout into pieces of the requisite size and shape, preparatory to beingfashioned into gaiter tops as represented by Figs. 1 and 4, there beingtwo of each, Fig. 1 representing one-half of the heel part and Fig. 4fone-haltet the front part, Figs. 2 and 5, forming the correspondingparts of the lining. The two pieces like Fig. 1, forming the two 'halvesof the heel part of the gaiter top are first stitched together as inFig. 6, they being for this puras represented at (a) Fig. 8. The twoparts of the heel lining are then sewed together in the same manner andopened out after which the two are placed together with their facesinward and stitched together at top, as represented by the dotted line(ZJ) Fig. 8, previous to which however the tug (c) is inserted betweenthem as shown in red in the same figure, and thus secured to the heel bythe same seam (b) Fig. 8, that secures the upper edges of the heel part(A) of the gaiter top and lining. Thus secured, the gores (D) are -theninserted between the outer part (A) of the heel and the lining (B) inthe manner shown in red lines Fig. 8, and stitched down as shown at (d)Fig. 8, thus securing one side or edge of the outer part (A) of theheel, gore and lining together by a seam common to all. The heel partthus completed and attached to one side Aof the gores, the lining andouter part 'are then turned right side out preparatory to being securedto the front part of the gaiter top; for which purpose, the two halvesofv the outer part (E) of the front of the gaiter top are first securedtogether in the same manner as the heel in part (A) (represented inFigs. G and S) as shown in Figs. 9 and l1; and the two parts of thelining sewed together as shown in Fig. l0, after. which they are puttogether' as shown in Fig. l1 and stitched together at top asrepresented at (b) Fig. ll. The unfastened edge 0f the gores (D) arethen inserted between them as represented in red lines Fig. 1l and thenstitched together by being passed through the machine, as in the case ofthe attachment of the other side of the gore to the heel part that is tosay, by a seam (d) common to all. In this operation, the lower parts ofthe heel part of the gaiter top and lining are secured to the frontparts, they in common with the gores, for this purpose, having beeninserted between the lining' and outer part of the front of the gaitertop, so that the continuation of the same seam that secured the gores tothe front part secured the heel to the front. The two gores and sides ofthe heel being thus secured to the front, the lining and outer part ofthe latter are then turnedright side out, which completes the gaitertop, as in Fig. 14, it being then ready to be attached to the heel andsole. By this improved method therefore the whole gaiter top can be madeby machine instead of having to be partially sewed by hand and partly lby machine as heretofore, whereby a very great-saving of time and laboris effected while a stronger, neater and better gaiterI top .is made.

From what has been said, it will be apparent that there are variousmodes of carrying my invention into elfect, without altering theprinciple in any degree; as for instance, instead of commencing bysewing the two halves of the cloth of the heel together and then thelining in the same way, and afterward stitching them together at thetop, before securing one edge of the gores to them, and afterwardfollowing the same course vwith the frontpart; one edge of the gore maybe attached at once to onehalf ofthe outer cloth of the heel, and thelining, and then its other edge attached in the same manner to thecorresponding half of the outer part and lining, of the front part ofthe gaiter top, and then'V the other Oore securedin the same manner tothe other lialf of the gaiter top; after which the respective halves ofthe outer cloth of the gaiter top may be sewed together and then thelining sewed together in the same way; after which the upper edge of thelining and outer part of the heel may be stitched toc gether asrepresent-ed in Fig. 8; and then, the upper edge of the outer cloth ofthe front part and lining sewed together in the same way as representedin Fig. 11. So that there is no difference in the result, there merelybeing a transposition of the different operations-each way enabling theoperator to finish a gaiter top by machine sewing a result never beforeattained. It is also apparent that the addition of leather tips andheels to such gaiters can in no way affect the operation abovedescribed.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Let ters Patent is- Securing the upper edge of the cloth ofthe front and heel parts of a Congressgaiter top to their respectivelinings by an inside seam (b) Figs. 8 and 11, when such seams are usedin connection with gores of elastic cloth attached to the gaiter top andlining by a seam common to all, the whole-

